[ChristianSeel]

In years past we've used combinations of evergreen branches to flavor liquids and create a Christmas tree aroma. This year we took a more literal approach. In a previous post, I mentioned that we decided to focus on the fireplace and the Christmas tree as the strongest winter associations.







We plate a venison course on a log to convey the fireplace aroma. In this course we use fresh Juniper branches to help project the smell of the season.

The goose naturally goes with juniper from a flavor pairing perspective, but in this case it also is based on a more abstract association with holiday of Christmas. Often the traditional food served for Christmas dinner is similar if not identical to that of thanksgiving. Sometimes instead of turkey there is a roasted ham, or both. But years ago a goose roasted with orange, mace, nutmeg and sage was more typical. To play on both the tradition and the foundation of ingredient pairing we bring in whole fresh geese-- the breast, legs and gizzards are cured. The breast meat is cooked sous vide at 59.5C. We render the fat and use it to fry the tempura. The legs and innards are made into confit and the bones made into stock - all go into the stuffing.





Our stuffing is based on a traditional recipe and includes the goose stock and confit, whole grain bread, fennel, onions, sage and goose fat. We cook it sous vide and press to form the bags. Armagnac soaked prunes are also a traditional garnish with roasted goose. We bloom the prunes in hot water to soften and remove some of the sugar content. Some salt and spices are added and the mixture is pureed until smooth it is spiked with armagnac at the end. The puree is gelled with agar and gellan to form a creamy component to the tempura bite.


Few things can trigger the sense of the holiday like the incredible smell of juniper at Christmas time. We trim the whole branches to form the skewers.





Once battered and fried, the tempura skewers are warmed in the salamander to release the intense juniper aroma. In a single bite you experience the traditional flavors and smell of the season.