[ChristianSeel]

One of the greatest difficulties in preparing a winter menu is identifying the unique and defining aromatic characteristics. Seasonal aromas and triggers are usually easy, flowers in the spring, lilac and hyacinth, tomato vines in the summer, oak leaves in the fall, but winter? Cold, stillness, quiet, lifelessness. How do we use these to create a memorable and heightened experience? As we seek to challenge the guest, its fitting that we be challenged to create a menu based on such stark qualities. The two strongest of our winter associations were the fireplace and the Christmas tree.



Our fireplace begins by burning birch logs on the flattop until charred. We sand them down to create a presentation surface. They do not carry the initial pungent smoke as with a campfire or the burning leaves of fall, but a cleaner, ember smell of the fireplace.



Chef Achatz recalls a conversation at the French Laundry with former co-worker and current Bouchon Las Vegas Chef, Mark Hopper. Hopper stated that all food that shares the same color can be paired together. We find some truth in this statement, but do not fully embrace the idea. We continue in the theme of monochromatic ingredients. In conceptualizing this dish, Chef Achatz and Chef de Cuisine Dave Beran created a list of around 35 items that share the color black, to pair with the burnt log.







The monochromatic presentation becomes - visually - an extension of the log itself, the whisps of dried trumpets like something mangled in a fire, the earthy colors and wrinkles of the roasted vegetables, the black sauce sheet melted over the top, and crumbs like soil.





We make the sauce sheet with black trumpet mushrooms, dark raisins, dark pumperknickle bread, black garlic, black licorice, and burnt onion. "Dark" flavors are often thought of as dull or muted, so we punctuate the sheet with the sharpness of juniper berries and black licorice. The result is rich in umami with balance of acidity from the bread - almost like a sourdough pumperknickel - and sweetness from the raisins.

We pair the course with the seasonal item venison. We cook the loins sous vide. To order they are seared and butter-basted. The vegetables are roasted with herbs and butter. We brine some of the black trumpet mushrooms and save some for a dehydrated garnish. A square of cranberry gel adds a little extra brightness.





As the dish goes out we touch it with the torch to create a light smolder as it reaches the table.

[awesomeoposum26]

ChristianSeel, on 09 December 2009 - 08:29 PM, said:

One of the greatest difficulties in preparing a winter menu is identifying the unique and defining aromatic characteristics. Seasonal aromas and triggers are usually easy, flowers in the spring, lilac and hyacinth, tomato vines in the summer, oak leaves in the fall, but winter? Cold, stillness, quiet, lifelessness. How do we use these to create a memorable and heightened experience? As we seek to challenge the guest, its fitting that we be challenged to create a menu based on such stark qualities. The two strongest of our winter associations were the fireplace and the Christmas tree.



Our fireplace begins by burning birch logs on the flattop until charred. We sand them down to create a presentation surface. They do not carry the initial pungent smoke as with a campfire or the burning leaves of fall, but a cleaner, ember smell of the fireplace.



Chef Achatz recalls a conversation at the French Laundry with former co-worker and current Bouchon Las Vegas Chef, Mark Hopper. Hopper stated that all food that shares the same color can be paired together. We find some truth in this statement, but do not fully embrace the idea. We continue in the theme of monochromatic ingredients. In conceptualizing this dish, Chef Achatz and Chef de Cuisine Dave Beran created a list of around 35 items that share the color black, to pair with the burnt log.







The monochromatic presentation becomes - visually - an extension of the log itself, the whisps of dried trumpets like something mangled in a fire, the earthy colors and wrinkles of the roasted vegetables, the black sauce sheet melted over the top, and crumbs like soil.





We make the sauce sheet with black trumpet mushrooms, dark raisins, dark pumperknickle bread, black garlic, black licorice, and burnt onion. "Dark" flavors are often thought of as dull or muted, so we punctuate the sheet with the sharpness of juniper berries and black licorice. The result is rich in umami with balance of acidity from the bread - almost like a sourdough pumperknickel - and sweetness from the raisins.

We pair the course with the seasonal item venison. We cook the loins sous vide. To order they are seared and butter-basted. The vegetables are roasted with herbs and butter. We brine some of the black trumpet mushrooms and save some for a dehydrated garnish. A square of cranberry gel adds a little extra brightness.





As the dish goes out we touch it with the torch to create a light smolder as it reaches the table.

How many different components are on the dish itself?

[aarmenian]

This is one of the coolest dishes I've seen. Still pushin that envelope - awesome.

[vinaigre]

Recently came across this article on Laura Parker's pairing of food with its native soil:

From the New York Times Magazine's Year in Ideas issue:

http://www.nytimes.c...e/ideas/2009/#g
(the middle article)

An interesting take on use of inedible organic matter to amplify and deepen flavor (similar to the smoldering log). Has any work been done at Alinea on the subject?

[pleddy1]

Awesome ideas here and presentation...Couple questions:

1. How many different "serving" logs do you have for service? Can you reuse?
2. Do you have troubles with stability as every log is different and definitely is not level. I can anticipate a guest putting too much pressure on a side and end up having all the components falling to the plate below.

Paul

[ChristianSeel]

pleddy1, on 11 December 2009 - 07:13 AM, said:

Awesome ideas here and presentation...Couple questions:

1. How many different "serving" logs do you have for service? Can you reuse?
2. Do you have troubles with stability as every log is different and definitely is not level. I can anticipate a guest putting too much pressure on a side and end up having all the components falling to the plate below.

Paul

Paul,

We have around 35 logs in service right now. We are getting more however. We have a system of burning the logs to sanitize and remove bits of food, then sanding to resurface.

The service of the log has been difficult. Chef Achatz is working with Martin Kastner to develop a more practical system. Right now we serve it in a bed of salt to stabilize it on the plate.