[ChristianSeel]

Once a year Mitsuwa marketplace in Edgewater, IL brings in a fresh, 400-pound bluefin tuna for a carving demonstration. The tuna comes in the night before, this one from the coast of Spain. The event has a large audience and additional security guards stand watch. People from all over the Chicago area are drawn by the size, rarity and delicacy of an extremely fresh and beautiful fish.



As the time for the demo drew near, the crowd grew dense. The dramatic pounding of Japanese drums plays over the PA. Two Los Angeles sushi chefs fly in for the event, and are introduced as if they were contenders, with the theme music from Rocky playing in the background.




The maguro-bocho traditional tuna carving knife was next to be introduced. A longer version - maguro-houchou - are used at Tsukiji Market in Tokyo and measure 1 meter.




Firstly they remove the collar or kama-toro, which is auctioned immediately. We won the first collar for the restaurant which will be used in a special VIP dish tomorrow night.

[ChristianSeel]

Next, they remove the loins, one at a time. It takes 4 staff members to carry the loin to the table where it is portioned by the chef into small 4-5 pound pieces. It is then passed to the edges of the "arena" where the assistants rapidly break it down into smaller retail portions, starting with the chu-toro and o-toro.








At this point the event takes on a frantic note. I was almost trampled as the high energy tuna enthusiasts fought over the first few cuts of fresh toro. It resembled a stock market trading pit or high stakes sporting event rather than a culinary demonstration. The first pieces were snatched up before the assistants could place them in the display cooler.







After the second loin is removed, staff members remove the meat closest to the bone with spoons. This is called nakaochi, and is prized among tuna lovers even though it is generally sold at a lower price. None of the fish is wasted. Once the loins and nakaochi have been removed, the lateral bone or "spine," is cut into small sections and sold. The bones contain an edible gel called sekizui - a true delicacy. We were able to secure a piece of this as well for the VIP tuna dish.





We appreciate this element of theater and showmanship. The event of carving a fish is heightened to an exciting theatrical experience - something more than a simple culinary demonstration. Fish are cut everyday in restaurants and markets throughout the city, without a crowd eagerly awaiting the result.

[docsconz]

There is no doubt that bluefin tuna is one of the most wonderful foods in the world - at least for now. Seeing this is the first time that I have ever been disappointed by Alinea. The bluefin is on the verge of extinction - its very fate may be being decided as I write this as fishing limits are currently being discussed. As much as I love eating bluefin, I can not and will not until and unless stocks rebound to the point that they are no longer in danger of extinction. While I understand and appreciate Alinea's efforts to produce the finest food and dining experience in the world, I would have hoped that the plight of the bluefin would have deserved greater consideration regardless of the VIP's for whom some of this one are destined. Though it is not clear that it is a truly sustainable alternative, at least an argument can be made for kindai, farm-raised bluefin tuna.

[Renn]

I'd like to hear Chef Achatz's response to Docsconz's post...deliciousness and responsibility seem to be more in a tug of war as time goes on. We really are talking about a foodstuff that is likely to disappear at the current rate of consumption.... I would also hope that a restaurant of Alinea's reach and influence could take the extra step of understanding the repercussions of its sourcing.

[porsche01]

I enjoyed both the article and the pics. Thanks guys. I lived in Misawa, Japan for 3 years and enjoyed Bluefin on 2 occasions and loved it. There is something to be savored and adored in the texture and flavor that is uncomparable to any other Tuna. Now do I think the chastising was necessary , not really ! Believe me at the price of Blue Fin I don't think we really have to worry that much about other Chefs using this ingredient. It just seems like an unlikely ingredient to use as a dish on anyones menu which is why it is probably going to stay as strictly an Alinea dish. The VIPs that got it were lucky. Most of us in America will go our entire lives without seeing an actual piece of real Blue Fin. It is a true enjoyment to watch the break down of the fish. Please continue posting these pics and articles. Its not like Chef Achatz was donning a club and whacking baby seals on some distant Alaskan seashore . Let's face it as long as the fish being used was caught LEGALLY then I see NO problem what-so-ever.

[breifenberg]

can you describe the dish that was created for the VIP? thanks