Alinea - Mosaic: Replying To White Truffles - Alinea - Mosaic

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Replying to White Truffles

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Topic Summary

bell209 Icon

Posted 22 January 2010 - 01:33 PM

That sounds amazing! I will definitely try that next season. I was also serving poached quails egg ravioli topped with white truffle as a canape which went down really well a bit like the truffle explosion but with runny egg yolk inside YUM!!! Its so lovely to use truffles you have found in the morning and serve them to guests that evening they really are a special ingredient.

ChristianSeel Icon

Posted 04 December 2009 - 06:02 PM

QUOTE (awesomeoposum26 @ Dec 4 2009, 01:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
How does one eat the pear mousse dish? Do they discard the pear "bowl" after they are done? And how do you get the pears from not oxidizing by the time all the components are put on and set?

Also, if someone orders the white truffle dish, does it substitute the traditional trout dish, or is it added as another course?


The pear bowl is only for serving and not intended to be eaten. We hold the halved pears in acidulated water and fill them immediately with mousse.

The white truffle supplement course is an addition to the menu. The antique dish is a different concept - designed to juxtapose a classical course into a contemporary menu. We offer white truffles to guests who want them, because they are an incredible seasonal item. The specific courses were chosen as a simple way to serve an expensive ingredient as well as the emotional significance they hold for Chef Achatz.

awesomeoposum26 Icon

Posted 04 December 2009 - 01:13 AM

How does one eat the pear mousse dish? Do they discard the pear "bowl" after they are done? And how do you get the pears from not oxidizing by the time all the components are put on and set?

Also, if someone orders the white truffle dish, does it substitute the traditional trout dish, or is it added as another course?

Grant Achatz Icon

Posted 04 December 2009 - 12:04 AM

QUOTE (Nate @ Dec 3 2009, 11:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That sounds amazing! How long will the white truffle supplement be available on the menu (based on a typical demand given how much you ordered this year)?


We are going through about 2-3 pounds a week currently. The season typically lasts until the turn of the year.

Nate

Posted 03 December 2009 - 11:49 PM

That sounds amazing! How long will the white truffle supplement be available on the menu (based on a typical demand given how much you ordered this year)?

ChristianSeel Icon

Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:14 PM



The snow fell for the first time this year in Chicago. The symbolic seasonal transition seems the perfect occasion to introduce a treasured winter item. Anyone familiar will note, that the incredible intensity and complexity of this ingredient is exceeded only by the expense. Our white truffles are coming from Alba at somewhere between $2,600 to $2,800 per pound, depending on size and quality. Every year during the white truffle season we implement a supplementary dish into our regular menu for those desirous of the pungent tuber. Currently guests have the option of white truffles served with tagliatelle or risotto.





At the French Laundry, Chef Achatz used to watch Chef Thomas Keller prepare white truffles in traditional pasta courses. These fond memories have emotional significance for Alinea's Chef, and we stay true to the classical preparations. White truffles are always served with fatty, rich courses. The tagliatelle pasta is an excellent carrier for the beurre monte its dressed with, as with the starchy rice of the risotto with truffle butter. The simple, traditional dishes highlight this extremely special and unique ingredient.



We usually sell around 20-30 of these courses a night, which can amount to 50% of the total number of guests and the serving is generous. The split is usually pretty even between the risotto and tagliatelle with a slight preference toward the pasta. We serve the risotto with a black truffle-butter which changes the flavor and we pair it with a red wine. The white truffle on the other hand is more subtly perfumed and we pair it with Alain Robert Reserve 1990 vintage blanc de blanc Champagne. Made by one of only a few producers in Le Mesnil, Champange, this 100% chardonnay wine sits on its lees for 18 years before being disgorged. This process develops the complex, oxidized flavor that pairs with the perfume of the white truffle.





We shave the truffles table-side over the dishes, not for showmanship but to provide the guest with the intense aroma of the freshly shaved truffle. As the truffle itself comes to an end, we are left with 9-12 gram pieces that are perfectly good, but no longer able to served at the table. Instead of throwing them away, we use them for another dish, recently introduced into our menu.



We steep the end pieces in half and half and turn it into an ice cream - another way of using rich fatty dairy to pair with the truffle aroma. We pair it with allspice, pear and white wine. The fresh pear bowl is another in our work with fruit and vegetable vessels and indicates the filling- a pear mousse. We poach the dried pears in white wine and sugar, and puree them, then add whipped creme fraiche.



We set a thin layer of the poaching liquid over the top as a gelee.



The white truffle ice cream sits over the top, seasoned with a little flake salt, encased in a nage flavored with black pepper and allspice. We use the spices to keep the dish on the border of sweet and savory.



The hot and spicy black pepper go well with the sweetness of the pears. The floral qualities of the pepper and allspice integrate with those of the truffle.

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